Cast Iron Ranalah Crack Repair! | Reviving History

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Информация о Cast Iron Ranalah Crack Repair! | Reviving History

Название	:	Cast Iron Ranalah Crack Repair! \| Reviving History
Продолжительность	:	19.14
Дата публикации	:
Просмотров	:	41 rb

Interested to know why you chose to TIG weld over bronze brazing? I think that brazing introduces less/ more even heat and I have had good results brazing cast iron
Comment from : Manny Kightley

I felt your pain describing when you found the crack, glad you seem to have managed to fix it OK !
Comment from : AndyC

Dom, please tell me what did you use as a filler rod for welding the cast iron?
Comment from : martin campbell

You have the right attitude here, have a go, if it fails you get experience, if it works you make a note of what you did! I would be very surprised if you were able to tin cast iron! I really cannot see the need to as the babbit will go into and small depressions in the casting and prevent movement of the bush, if you want to make it extra locked you can machine radial grooves in the housing, and providing to casting is heated up before you pour the babbit it will form a mechanical bond, good luck! Chris B
Comment from : Englishman French

Thanks!
Comment from : S T

What you put dishes in your Parts Cleaner and Food in your Parts Heater Hmm not sure you understand the concept of this Malarky 🤣🤣
Comment from : Andy Plage

Tinning cast iron is very, very hard, pickling in Sulfuric acid helps Are you sure it was tinned originally though Normally if there's knobbles and lumps welded or cast on, it's more a structural bond than a chemical one they depend on I've done a lot of white metal (Babbit) bearings in my time, working for a firm who specialise in casting and machining vintage car bearings And when there where knobbles, there was no tinning Also, is there a reason your using Babbit? I would have assumed the original would have been cheaper lead brKeep up the good work, it's lovely seeing the old tools brought back to life
Comment from : Gary Sweetland

Good work using tig braze bronze on that crack Thats the best repair choice 2nd would be nickel 55 rod
Comment from : vettepicking

Love your films and the way you explain your processing the challenges you meet Great work Dom
Comment from : Christopher Brown

Ref tin coating the components …brI’m no engineer but brbrIt brings to mind soldering copper pipes while plumbing… When soldering flux is used to ensure a clean copper removing impuritiesbrWould this principle also work in the Babbitt process…?
Comment from : Daniel Nicholas

Very inspiring! Couple of questions: What kind of rod did you use to weld the crack? How did you ensure a gradual cool down?
Comment from : stricht8

Mask 👍👍👍 Fume extractor system please! We protect eyes fingers (and jumpers!) - so look after those lungs as well! You're doing a great job - thank you!
Comment from : George Findlay

Hi Dom ive just started watching your channel & i thi k its brilliant all the thinks you get up to in your workshop is right up my street mate 😁 im an engineer by trade & like nothing better than repairing & fixing up things to so we've got a lot in common btw ive just watched your video on the "bridgeport" haven't seen one of those for ages last time i used one was at college as part of my apprenticeship
Comment from : steve o

as an apprentice mechanic during the 60's, the little bit of cast work I did had to be chiselled as grinding forced granules into the casting and so we chiselled out a vee for building up the weld, In my 20's I have successfully welded engine blocks where con rods came out and we would chip or shot peen the weld area to settle the structural grain (I think) as we welded, I see that that is a normal repair in modern times davemac
Comment from : maccacoffee

Ream it and bush it or fill it with molasiis
Comment from : Bruce Mc Geehan

You might check out Kieth Rucker at Vintage Machinery here on you tube He has done quite a bit of babbit bearing pouring and to my knowledge he never tinned the parts first
Comment from : Todd Brown

Fine work, Experts on tinning cast iron I guess are few , used special fluxes but only tiny areas/ I agree, probably not wetted origionally fixed the clicky knee on new bridgeport and adjusted x y backlash
Comment from : beautifulsmall

Hello Dominic!br I have been watching really interesting your videos I have Ranalah too I bought at in England couple years ago It was poor conditionThe problem was that it wasn’t lined up with upper and lower wheel (machine was fall down some age ) and the upper wheels axle was bended We managed straighten the axle without melt and renew the axle The machinist told me that the axle were not been tinned ,even it looks like so He mentioned that substance what they been used that time is not shrinking is it spreading He dosen’t remenber the special substance name but he said that metallurigies use that nowsdays also
Comment from : Harri Puranen

Why do people think drum music should be used on videos as it is extremely repulsive to anyone with 1/2 a brain
Comment from : CMAenergy

yay poor it please !
Comment from : David _1

Could you run a small hone inside would clean and polish like a engine cylinder
Comment from : Andrew Harrison

If it hadn't worked I was going to suggest using a rotary burr to gring down a few lines inside to at least tin those areas and provide a key
Comment from : Del Cat

What composition rods did you use for the crack repair?
Comment from : Gardener42

Parts in the oven, walnut tumbling media(bagged) in the washing machine & maggots(fishing bait) in the fridgebrThere are many advantages to terminating the idea of shared living space 😁
Comment from : Gardener42

Could it have been stitched like an engine block ? Continuity issue with hair at one point 🤣🤣
Comment from : Brian Reardon

Ha Ha! Coolant all over the floor Been there, done it It won't be the last time
Comment from : Andrew

I wonder if a cylinder Hone would work? IDK, just a thought, thanks for sharing, I love watching people saving history like thisbrEDIT: well i stayed till the end, glad you got it!
Comment from : TJ Blahblahblah

I can see a face, new weld is the nose and extra bolt hole an eye, gap below is the mouth
Comment from : ROGER KIRBY

Hi Dom Another great video Thank you I have some very old taps and dies I would love to give to a good home Would you be interested I live locally
Comment from : Steve Rose

Wow I am impressed Your satisfaction when you were successful with the Babbitt was lovely to see It seemed like that period was a real learning session All the best with your enterprise
Comment from : John Michael

Keep going , your onto a winner 👍
Comment from : vqey2

There is currently a Ranalah bodied Rolls Royce on eBay - maybe another little side project for the workshop 😂🤫
Comment from : Steve Taylor

Cylinder bore honing stones in a drill is the best way to clean , but may be too smooth to allow a purchase
Comment from : Electric Lady Guitars Devon UK

Brilliant job!
Comment from : Keith L

The old cast iron was probably porous ? Very difficult to remove from the iron You'll get there We'll done ✔
Comment from : Phil F

why tin the hole? it has a shoulder top and bottom to hold the Babbitt in place In the old days 40+ years ago We use to pour Babbitt on four post hydraulic presses no pre-tinning
Comment from : stan

I think you did well getting that old cast iron to tin One of the most active fluxes that you can use is Killed Spirits or Bakers Fluid I also think the old lead solder is a lot better than the new lead free stuff
Comment from : Allan Richards

Great work Dom, love how you give things a bash, all part of learning, thanks for sharing
Comment from : Darragh Connolly

Ahhh Dom’; that Defender is still there, & summer is coming…?
Comment from : Eddie Henrard

This is getting boring Go buy a new one
Comment from : A BC

Similar process to lead loading car body panels
Comment from : Brian Claridge

Is that silicon bronze you brazed it with ?brDegrees the hole with caustic soda , Club the bottom of the hole with plasticine fill up the hole with a strong solution of caustic soda and let it soak for a few hours rinse out and try again
Comment from : Paul Muff

Keep at it Dom Who has never tried to do something they are unsure of? It’s essential we follow that inquisitive nature to develop learning Loved the fixing of the cast part I’ve often wondered how such a fix was done Many thanks, Wayne
Comment from : wsherratt

Another fantastic video, thank you, really looking forward to the next one
Comment from : Damien Purcel

You should always use pure tin for tinny when Babbitting , the stuff you’re using is lead based, it will be ok probably for this job but when i did my 1934 big end’s etc you have to use pure tin otherwise they will leave the shells 👍 loving your videos 😀👍👍
Comment from : Paul Muff

Hi Dom I would of thought that the inside wall of the casting would be course enough to hold the babit ok
Comment from : Mike The Refurbisher

Great stuff Dom For the interior face tinning, I was thinking you could try one of those honing tools that look like berries in a stick It would do a better job of refacing the surface than a wire wheel Good luck
Comment from : Brian Jones

try fry's fry-o-lux for tinning your brass work
Comment from : Terry Wilson FPV

A lot of people call brazing welding, it isn't! Welding is melting the parent metals together, brazing is using a bras or bronze filler which joins the two metals without changing the structure of the metals to be joined You could try Bakers fluid which is a hydrochloric acid based flux when tinning the cast ironbrCheers, Matthew
Comment from : Matthew Tinker

Great progress Dom The mistakes make it all the more interesting Keep up the good work!
Comment from : Tony Hillyard

I have indeed put parts in the oven, but I had the foresight to wait until my wife left town for a week The smell finally dissipated just before she got back
Comment from : Paul Gardner

flux?
Comment from : Dig of the dump

You may be better using an acid-based flux to 'wet' the metal for tinning
Comment from : Richard Veitch

yay well done
Comment from : Talabavin Rohan

The guy who does our smithing at work (tidal doors etc) swears that large welds, esp on cast iron, are better done in summer ie when the metal is warmer in 1st place In 26yrs, l've never had a weld of his fail Some of the pieces are 5t+brBtw, your lathe peed the floor lol
Comment from : meirion evans

Well done Dom trial & error always works
Comment from : Bob T

Find some bakers soldering fluid, it will clean the oxidised layer and get a good bond with the tinning compound
Comment from : Tigtheblacksmith

I have found lead free solder is difficult to use Have a good stock of 60/40 solder should out last me Great what you are doing
Comment from : Roger Bond

Maybe 21st century metal/CF loaded epoxy would be an option instead of the babet - or is that heresy 😁😁
Comment from : Neil Gillies

It's the "show all"good and bad that makes these videos so interesting and enjoyable Your inthusiasm is so contagious Keep the videos coming Dom
Comment from : Roger Davis

Run a carbide burr round inside the hole to clean up the surface and it will take the tinning solution
Comment from : David Walker

Hi Dom, great crack repair! Out of interest, what filler rod did you use when you were welding it up?brCheers
Comment from : Henrys Workshop

A friend once put his Gunked cylinder head in the dishwasher thinking that his wife was going to be out long enough She came home and he now has his own dishwasher in his workshop and a new one in the kitchen
Comment from : Rowancrafts

I saw on tv the other day that the repair shop has been copied An Australian version is coming I hope it’s good Australia did a version of Top Gear No good A version of American pickers Also not good
Comment from : Donald Ridley

My wife caught me cleaning my Triumph parts in the dishwasherhas to be done
Comment from : Like a Kite

Remember to pre-heat the casting before you pour the molten lead, NOT too hot, PS, turn on your RANALAH sign
Comment from : John Hughes

we call that tip a "rosebud" here in the states
Comment from : snow man333

Will the babbit have long ears and a fluffy tail? 😆
Comment from : Hertog von Berkshire

Dom Is the babbit just being used as a shock absorbing space packer/filler? or is there a bearing surface? As that is what I am used to seeing it used for Don't be surprized if you have some niggles As the babbit may have been titterated slightly if it was used for packing/spacing?
Comment from : Andrew Guthrie

Beautiful repair on the original!brThanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Comment from : Paul Cooper

Dom, reach out to "Hand Tool Rescue" in Canada - (also a YouTube channel) - he's made babbitt on several projects for bearings in lathes, etc and might have some ideas/suggestions
Comment from : Mark Standen

God job man!
Comment from : David Sinclair

Absolutely outstanding! brYour skills are off the scale, your passion gives me butterflies, your humility is only exceeded by your intelligence Thank you very much Regards Gareth Wiltshire UK Gratitude Quality Respect
Comment from : Gary Lightning

Your videos are always entertaining and instructional Thank you for inviting us along on this historic journey!
Comment from : Thomas Murray

Good man Dom, glad you sorted the tinning issue As for the crack, looks like you’ve sorted out okay Great video See you next time
Comment from : moonstarer55

Hi Dom, very interesting, I use cat litter to mop up spilled oil Will the cast Iron shrink more than the babbit when it cools?
Comment from : Graham Cuthbert

Good stuff 😁👍
Comment from : Tim G

The coolant looked like the blood from Ash the android in alien
Comment from : Lucien Williams

Crack welding, exactly how I was shown as an apprentice in the 70s, however we used an ark welder
Comment from : Jim Mizzi

Love the Ranalah journey Dom Don’t forget to turn the Ranalah sign on when talking about it 👌 Don’t know if your into antique cone rollers but there’s one for sale in Crewe on FBM
Comment from : Peter Gledhill

Hi Dom, good work on figuring the tinning I am curious about your comment about Ranalah servicing How many original Ranalahs are out there still?
Comment from : IAmA LittlePepper

Dom to of cleaned the cast iron bore and remove embedded dirt using expanding reamer would of helped
Comment from : Rob 50

Well done for showing all the "didn't go quite right" moments, we can all learn from that and it shows that engineering can be fraught with hazards and uncertainties👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Comment from : Bob Ingram

i used to be a plumber and one thing i found to my cost at first was not allowing the carbon from the blow torch flame near anything i was soldering , always heat a joint up away from the soldering area and wait untill the flux starts boiling before you put any solder near it , wiping a lead joint is done more subtly and a lot less heat is required , at least your learning and we are learning from your mistakes too ;)
Comment from : David Culshaw

Nice video and well presented, I was expecting you to demonstrate using cast stick welding rods Did you use special rods for tig welding cast-iron or was this tig brazing … sorry to be confused … look forward to the next one … i use too enjoy melting lead with dad in the shed when I was a kid … have fun … Nick
Comment from : Nicks creative stuff

There’s a ranala on marketplace for sale was originally at rolls Royce , it’s £6500 ……
Comment from : Slim shady

I bet you get some nice metal splinters dude!! 🤣brGot 2 units on the estate empty now mate if you need something bigger x
Comment from : Wingin-It Paint Sprayers

Thank you
Comment from : Promiscuous

solder with lead works better than the new lead free stuff, so I don't see why that shouldn't apply to your tinning process :)
Comment from : Austin Shackles